Pergolas, covered patios, retaining walls, paver surfaces, and full-scope yard design — the structural elements that turn a Peninsula hillside lot into a usable, designed outdoor environment.
Heavy-timber and steel overhead structures engineered for Peninsula wind loads — attached and freestanding configurations. Redwood and cedar construction.
We specialize in heavy-timber redwood pergolas and custom arbors that are built to last in the Peninsula climate. The outdoor environment here runs in two distinct modes — months of dry heat and afternoon sun, followed by months of marine layer, rain, and coastal wind. A structure that performs well in both needs to be designed for both. A south-facing pergola in San Bruno behaves differently from one on a north-facing lot in Pacifica, and we design for your specific site orientation and conditions — not a standard plan pulled from a catalog.
Attachment to the house is the most critical detail on any attached pergola or porch cover. Where the structure connects to the wall creates a flashing and waterproofing condition that has to perform for the life of the structure. Done incorrectly — a ledger bolted through siding without proper flashing, or a beam bearing on a surface that directs water toward the wall — it creates a dry rot path that works inward for years before it becomes visible. We treat the wall connection as the critical detail it is on every attached structure and document it for inspection. For freestanding structures, we engineer the post footings for the specific soil conditions and wind exposure of your lot.
Pergolas and arbors connect naturally to adjacent outdoor elements. A pergola over a redwood deck creates a cohesive covered outdoor room; a freestanding garden arbor can serve as the entry feature to a hardscaped patio or yard. We handle the full scope when the project calls for it. For properties where a more enclosed covered structure is appropriate, see our porches and patios page — the line between a pergola and a covered porch is often a roofing decision, and we build both.
Timber-framed attached structures with correct wall connection flashing — built for year-round Peninsula use. Concrete pier footings to bearing depth.
On the Peninsula, a covered porch or patio does real work. The morning fog, afternoon wind, and winter rain that define the local microclimate mean an uncovered outdoor space has a limited season. A properly built covered structure extends that season significantly — providing a sheltered space that is usable on days when an open deck or patio is not. We have been building attached outdoor structures on Peninsula properties since 1995, across the range of lot types, architectural styles, and microclimates that define this area.
The wall connection is where most covered porch and patio projects fail over time. Where the roof structure attaches to the house wall creates a flashing and waterproofing condition that has to perform for the life of the structure. The ledger must be properly bolted into sound framing, the flashing must direct water away from the wall assembly, and the roof slope must shed water clear of the house rather than toward it. Done incorrectly, moisture works into the wall framing and the result is dry rot that may not become visible for years. We treat the wall connection as the critical structural detail it is on every attached build — we flash it correctly, we document it, and it goes through inspection. If you are concerned an existing porch or patio cover has a deteriorated wall connection, our rot and structural repair work starts with a thorough assessment before any scope is written.
Covered patios and porches connect naturally to adjacent outdoor elements. A covered porch at the back of the house often transitions to an open redwood deck at the same level, which steps down via stairs to a hardscaped patio below. We handle the full scope when the project calls for it, and the connections between elements get the same attention as the elements themselves. For properties where an open overhead structure is sufficient, see our pergolas and arbors page — the distinction between a pergola and a covered patio is largely a roofing decision, and we build both.
Engineered retaining walls with proper drainage, tiered hillside solutions, and paver and flagstone patio surfaces. CMU block, natural stone, and timber systems.
Managing soil and water on a Peninsula hillside lot is a structural engineering problem as much as a landscape one. The wet winters here — concentrated rainfall on clay soils that have limited drainage capacity — create lateral hydrostatic pressure behind retaining walls that can move or fail walls that were not designed for it. We design retaining walls with drainage as the primary consideration: gravel backfill, perforated drain pipe at the footing, and weep holes or outlets that give accumulated water a path out rather than building pressure against the wall face. A wall that looks solid and fails in the second or third wet winter was not designed for the site conditions.
Retaining wall height is the primary factor in both structural design and permit requirements. Walls under a certain height — typically 3 to 4 feet depending on the Peninsula city — may not require a permit, but the structural principles apply regardless. Walls above that threshold require engineered design in most jurisdictions, and on hillside lots with surcharge loads above the wall — a driveway, a structure, heavy equipment access — the engineering requirements are more stringent. We confirm permit requirements at the estimate and handle the application and inspection coordination on every permitted wall project. For walls in the Zone Zero fire hazard areas of the Peninsula, masonry and concrete block walls also serve a secondary function as non-combustible perimeter elements — see our Zone Zero non-combustible fencing page for that context.
Hardscape surfaces — paver patios, flagstone areas, concrete walkways, and decomposed granite paths — provide the level, durable floor that outdoor living requires. On Peninsula hillside lots, the hardscape design has to work with the drainage plan for the yard, not against it. Impermeable surfaces that direct water toward the house or toward a retaining wall create problems over time. We design drainage paths at the layout stage, slope surfaces away from structures, and coordinate hardscape installation with any adjacent wall or structure work. Hardscape projects often run alongside pergola or covered patio builds — the paved surface and the overhead structure define the outdoor room together.
Full-scope project planning for properties where fencing, decking, hardscape, and structures need to be designed and built together as one coordinated project.
North Fence and Deck Co. has been building the full range of exterior improvements on Peninsula properties since 1995. When your project touches fencing, decking, hardscape, structures, and stairs at the same time, working with a single contractor who understands every element is the difference between a project that integrates cleanly and one that does not.
The value of working with a contractor who understands every element of a full-scope yard project is continuity of judgment. The deck elevation affects the stair run. The retaining wall location affects the fence line. The gate placement affects the driveway grade. These decisions compound across the scope — getting them right requires seeing the whole project, not just the piece in front of you.
We bring the same approach to every full-scope build: site assessment first, written scope before any work begins, and a single point of contact from permit application through final inspection.
Every material has a place — the right choice depends on your property, your city’s codes, and what you are trying to accomplish.
Redwood is native to Northern California — dimensionally stable in coastal humidity, naturally resistant to the conditions that degrade other wood species, and takes finish well. Con-Heart grade (clear of knots, cut from the heartwood) is what we specify for structural fence applications. It machines cleanly, holds fasteners well, and presents a consistent face from board to board.
Board-on-Board is the most popular layout on the Peninsula — alternating boards on both sides of the stringer create full privacy from every angle while allowing airflow. Dog-Ear single-face is a clean traditional look for flat lots. Both can be built at standard 6-foot height or taller where code allows.
Posts are concrete-set at appropriate depth for your soil and fence height. On rocky or unstable Peninsula soils we use steel post systems that anchor without a full concrete pour. All hardware is hot-dipped galvanized or stainless — standard hardware corrodes fast in coastal air and we do not use it.
Redwood can be left to weather naturally to a silver-gray patina, sealed clear to preserve the warm tone, or finished with a penetrating stain. A properly built redwood fence handles Peninsula conditions with minimal maintenance when finished correctly from the start.
A privacy fence is defined by function — full visual screening from ground to top rail — not by a single material. We build privacy fences in redwood, composite board systems, and vinyl depending on the property. The layout — Board-on-Board, solid-face, or shadowbox — determines the privacy level and how the fence responds to coastal wind.
Most Peninsula cities allow 6-foot privacy fencing in rear and side yards without a permit. Front yard heights are regulated — typically 3 to 4 feet. Corner lots have additional sight-line rules. We pull every permit required and handle all coordination with your city’s building department.
Redwood is the traditional choice and the one we build most often. Composite board systems are a strong alternative where low maintenance is the priority. Vinyl is available but we specify it selectively — it can be problematic on exposed hillside lots with significant wind loading.
Every privacy fence we build can be paired with walk gates, double drive gates, or combination setups — frames built from the same material as the fence, reinforced at the corners, hung on heavy-duty hardware rated for the gate weight.
California Health and Safety Code Section 115922 mandates a compliant barrier around every residential pool and spa. The code requires a minimum 48-inch fence height, maximum 4-inch sphere opening, and self-closing, self-latching gates that open away from the pool. Several Peninsula cities have adopted stricter local amendments — we identify those at the estimate.
Pool fencing is most commonly built in powder-coated aluminum (corrosion-resistant in pool chemical environments) or glass panel systems for an unobstructed view. We also build code-compliant wood pool fences where site conditions support it. Every system uses pool-environment rated hardware throughout.
The gate is the most critical safety element of a pool enclosure. It must be self-closing from any open position, self-latching, and open away from the pool. We specify hinge and closer hardware rated for the actual gate weight — an undersized closer that drifts out of adjustment is a safety failure.
A pool fence permit is required in every Peninsula city. The inspection is more thorough than a standard fence permit. We handle the application, coordinate with the building department, and schedule the inspection. Our enclosures are built to pass on the first visit.
A significant portion of the Peninsula — particularly Pacifica, San Bruno, Millbrae, and unincorporated San Mateo County — sits within CAL FIRE Very High Fire Hazard Severity Zones. Fencing is included in the material restrictions. Iron and steel fencing qualifies as non-combustible and is one of the most straightforward ways to meet Zone Zero requirements.
Non-combustible fencing systems include aluminum, steel, masonry, and specific composite products tested and listed by the California State Fire Marshal. Not all composite products qualify — the material must carry the appropriate rating. We maintain current SFM listings for the products we install.
Non-combustible does not mean industrial or plain. Powder-coated aluminum and steel systems are available in a range of profiles and colors that work with both contemporary and traditional Peninsula architecture. We will show you what has been installed on comparable properties in your area.
Fire-zone fence permits require material documentation. We maintain product specs and California State Fire Marshal listings for everything we install and include that documentation in every permit package. If you are unsure whether your property is in a fire hazard zone, we confirm that at the estimate.
The questions we hear most — before the estimate, during the build, and after.
We build pergolas, arbors, covered patios, attached and detached patio roofs, screen enclosures, and fully custom outdoor structures. Most projects combine structure with adjacent decking, stairs, or hardscape — we handle the full scope.
Usually yes, especially if it’s attached to the house or has a solid roof. Freestanding open-lattice pergolas sometimes fall under a size threshold, but this varies by Peninsula city. We confirm what’s required for your project at the estimate.
A pergola has an open lattice or beam roof — it provides partial shade and defines the space but doesn’t keep you dry. A patio cover or covered patio has a solid or semi-solid roof that provides real weather protection. We build both, and can help you decide which fits your goals and site.
Yes. Attached patio covers are one of our most common projects. The attachment point to the house requires careful flashing and waterproofing — improper attachment is a leading cause of dry rot and water intrusion. We treat this detail as a critical part of every attached structure we build.
We build primarily in clear heart redwood and cedar for traditional aesthetics, and in structural steel, aluminum, or pressure-treated lumber where conditions require it. Roofing options include polycarbonate panels, corrugated metal, and built-up roofing depending on the look and weather protection you need.
A straightforward pergola or patio cover typically takes three to five days of construction once permits are approved. Larger or more complex custom structures take longer — we give you a realistic timeline at the estimate.
Free estimates on all fencing, decking, hardscape, and custom build projects across the Peninsula.
